First layer lifting or not adhering at all? Start with the quick fixes — most bed adhesion problems are solved in under 5 minutes.
Step 1
Clean bed with IPA — always before printing
Step 2
Lower Z offset by −0.05mm — nozzle needs to squish filament
Step 3
Check bed temp: PLA 55°C, PETG 80°C, ABS 105°C
Skin oils, dust, and residue from previous prints block adhesion. Wipe the entire print surface with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol on a clean paper towel. Do this before every print session on PEI. This single fix solves ~40% of adhesion problems.
✅ Free, instant, no settings needed
The first layer must be squished against the bed — not floating above it. A correct first layer looks slightly flattened and uniform. If it looks like a round spaghetti strand, the nozzle is too far. Adjust Z offset in small steps (−0.05mm at a time) until the first layer squishes.
✅ Fixes the most common cause on new printers
PLA: 55-60°C minimum. PETG: 75-85°C. ABS/ASA: 100-110°C. TPU: 40-50°C. Let the bed fully stabilize at temperature — a bed that just reached target temp is still cold in spots. Wait 2-3 minutes after target is reached before starting the print.
✅ Critical for ABS — often overlooked
First layer speed should be 15-25 mm/s regardless of your normal print speed. High speed prevents the filament from properly bonding to the surface. In Cura: Initial Layer Speed = 20mm/s. In PrusaSlicer: First Layer Speed = 20mm/s. Bambu Studio: First Layer Speed = 30mm/s or lower.
✅ Easy slicer setting, immediate improvement
Even with auto-leveling, a mesh can drift over time. Run a fresh bed mesh compensation. On manual-level printers (Ender 3 original): use the paper method at all 4 corners + center. Ideal gap: paper slides with slight resistance. Re-level after any printer move or nozzle change.
✅ Must-do on manual-level printers every 20-30 prints
PLA on PEI: no preparation needed if clean. PETG on PEI: apply thin glue stick as release agent (prevents over-adhesion). ABS on glass: apply ABS slurry (dissolve ABS scraps in acetone) or hairspray. Nylon: Garolite (FR4) sheet is by far the best surface.
✅ Often the only reliable fix for engineering materials
Set first layer line width to 120-150% of nozzle diameter in your slicer. A wider first line has more surface contact with the bed. In Cura: Initial Layer Line Width = 120%. Combined with slow first layer speed, this is very effective.
✅ Easy to set, no hardware change
A brim adds extra lines around the first layer perimeter, increasing total contact area with the bed. Use for: tall narrow parts, any ABS/ASA print, Nylon. A raft is more extreme — a full sacrificial layer grid under the entire print. Use for very difficult materials or complex geometries.
✅ Immediate fix without changing other settings
| Material | Best Surface | Bed Temp | Adhesion Helper | Removal |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | PEI (textured or smooth) | 55–60°C | No prep needed if clean | Let cool to room temp, lifts off |
| PLA+ | PEI or glass | 55–60°C | Clean IPA, no prep | Cool to room temp |
| PETG | Textured PEI preferred | 75–85°C | Glue stick on smooth PEI (release agent) | Let cool fully — PETG sticks hard when hot |
| ABS | Glass or garolite | 100–110°C | ABS slurry, hairspray, or Magigoo | Let cool slowly (avoid temp shock) |
| ASA | PEI textured | 100–110°C | Magigoo or Dimafix | Let cool fully |
| TPU | Flexible PEI (magnetic) | 40–50°C | Usually sticks on its own | Flex the plate to pop off |
| Nylon | Garolite (FR4) sheet | 80–90°C | Nothing — garolite grips Nylon perfectly | Let cool completely before removing |
• Lines are slightly flattened and wider than round
• Lines bond together with no gaps between them
• Consistent width across entire layer
• Slight sheen from being squished against the bed
• No curling or lifting at edges
• Round spaghetti strands (nozzle too far)
• Gaps between lines (nozzle too far or under-extruding)
• Filament scraped off bed (nozzle too close)
• Lines curling up at edges (warping / ABS without enclosure)
• Inconsistent width (bed not level)