Printing D&D minis, Warhammer armies, or tabletop tokens? Here's exactly what filament to use — and the settings that actually work.
For FDM printers (most common): Use PLA or PLA Matte at 0.05–0.1mm layer height. Grey or white makes painting easier.
For maximum detail: Switch to a resin printer (MSLA) — FDM has physical limits at mini scale.
Best brand pick: Polymaker PolyTerra PLA or Prusament PLA — consistent diameter, minimal stringing.
Before picking a filament, you need to understand the trade-off between FDM (filament) and resin printing. Both work — but they excel at different things.
| Factor | FDM (Filament) | Resin (MSLA) |
|---|---|---|
| Detail Level | Good (0.05–0.1mm layers) | Excellent (0.025–0.05mm) |
| Ease of Use | Easy — standard FDM | Medium — IPA wash, UV cure |
| Safety | Safe — low odor PLA | ⚠️ Resin is toxic, needs gloves + ventilation |
| Cost | $18–25/kg filament | $25–40/L resin (less material needed) |
| Print Speed | 30–90 min/mini | Many minis in parallel (batch) |
| Best For | Terrain, tokens, large bases | Detailed character minis, busts |
Polymaker PolyTerra PLA
PLA$22/kgBest all-rounder for FDM minis
Prusament PLA
PLA$25/kgTight tolerances, very consistent
Bambu Lab PLA Matte
PLA Matte$20/kgHides layer lines better than glossy PLA
eSUN PLA+ (Grey)
PLA+$18/kgBudget pick, grey ideal for priming
Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like
MSLA Resin$30/LBest detail — but needs resin printer
The settings matter more than the filament brand for miniature quality. Here's what moves the needle:
| Setting | Value for Minis | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Layer Height ⭐ | 0.05–0.10 mm | Thinner layers = smoother curves, finer detail |
| Nozzle Size | 0.25 mm (ideal) / 0.4 mm (ok) | 0.25mm nozzle captures more detail |
| Print Speed | 20–30 mm/s | Slow = less vibration = sharper detail |
| Nozzle Temp | 195–205°C | Lower = less ooze, cleaner overhangs |
| Cooling Fan | 100% | Full cooling preserves sharp overhang edges |
| Supports | Tree supports (Organic) | Easier removal, less damage to mini surface |
| Ironing | Top surfaces only | Smooths flat surfaces like bases |
Grey is the ideal primer color. Acrylic paints adhere perfectly and colors appear true without the warmth of white or darkness of black. Most professional painters prime grey anyway.
Bright colors pop on white — good if you're painting with light/pastel tones or want vibrant colors. Layer lines are more visible than on grey though.
Hides layer lines best visually. Good for dark-themed armies or if you're skipping paint. Requires lighter paints and more coats.
XTC-3D or Epoxy Coating
Brush-on coating fills layer lines and creates a smooth surface. One coat can transform FDM quality. Dries in ~4 hours.
UV Resin Coating
Thin layer of UV resin (from nail lamp) smooths details. Good for spot treating faces or weapons.
Fine Sanding (600–1200 grit)
Sand in water to avoid micro-scratches. 600 → 800 → 1200 grit. Time-consuming but effective on larger surfaces.
Spray Primer
Vallejo, Citadel, or Army Painter spray primer fills tiny gaps. More practical than sanding for most minis.
Print at 45°: Rotating a mini 45° eliminates vertical flat surfaces where layer lines are most visible on facial features.
Tree supports only: Never use grid supports on minis — tree/organic supports have 90% less contact area and don't ruin surfaces.
First layer calibration matters most: A well-squished first layer means a stable base, fewer support issues, and better detail on the bottom half.
Dry your PLA: Even slightly moist filament creates blobs on fine details. Dry for 4h at 45°C before a long mini print session.
Print a test mini first: Print a small hero bust at your target settings before committing to a 3-hour army print.
Layer height: 0.05–0.10 mm
Nozzle: 0.25 mm (ideal)
Speed: 20–30 mm/s
Temp: 195–205°C
Cooling: 100%
Supports: Tree/Organic
Best color: Grey or White